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Literature | Famous words



                                                           Was there ever a Colossus of Rhodes? Mythical
                                                           or not, it must be reckoned one of the wonders of
         Cocteau on                                        the world strung on the thread of our itinerary. And
                                                           why not believe in it—as one believes in Phileas
         his own Rhodes                                    Fogg’s adventures?... Rome, a diamond; Athens, a
                                                           pearl; to-morrow Egypt and a scarab; Rhodes, the
         The famous French writer wanders                  first baroque stone we thread upon our neck-lace.
         through the streets of mystery on                 Brushing back her locks and resting on one knee,
         the island of the Knights and vividly             the Venus of Rhodes keeps vigil at the meeting-
         depicts his experience. O Γάλλος                  point of many races, cities, glories: Mycenae,
         συγγραφέας περιπλανάται στους                     Greece, the Roman Empire, Byzantium, the
                                                           Crusades, Knights of St John, Patmos where the
         δρόμους του νησιού των Ιπποτών και                apostle ate the book and wrote his Apocalypse, the
         περιγράφει την εμπειρία του.                      Turks, Suleiman the Magnificent, Hippocrates,
                                                           Homer, Caesar, Augustus, Tiberius....
                                                           Entering the market-place, I might have been stepping
                                                           into a scene from the Arabian Nights. The tongues of
                                                           Babel clacked round a Persian fountain. A little Jew
                                                           boy, just out of school, hailed us in French. All the life
                                                           of the East seething in the open street welcomed us
                                                           into its midst. From Rhodes on, every street treated us
                                                           to a pantomime; the three-walled shops gaped like so
                                                           many stage-sets on which the curtain never fell.
                                                           The town was full of barbers and cobblers. In the
                                                           repertory of an eastern street the Barber’s Opera has
                                                           pride of place, for each of the countless religious sects
                                                           affects a special mode of coiffure. Reclining in ecstatic
                                                           ease, the customer confides his head to hands equally
                                                           adept in shaving, hair-cuts and inflicting torture.
                                                           Boots hung everywhere in clusters. Every-where men
                                                           were tanning, sewing, polishing and selling boots.
                                                           Barbers’ shops and boot-shops alike displayed the
                                                           portrait of the Duce, a portrait all in dots and blobs so
                                                           skilfully laid out that once they hit the retina the eye
                                                           transfers the picture to the dazzling walls which once a
                                                           week the women do over with a fresh coat of lime.
                                                           On either side of the harbour, where once the feet
                                                           of the Colossus restedour ship had passed between
                                                           them two pillars rises. One pillar is crowned by
                                                           Romulus and Remus suckled by the Roman wolf;
                                                           from the summit of the other a bronze stag gazes
                                                           towards the isle of huntsmen and of roses. A wall
                                                           runs round the city, rising and falling in abrupt
                                                           festoons, topped by patrol-paths and tall towers.
                                                           You enter through fortress gates; once within, you
                                                           lose your bearings in a maze of stairways, platforms,
                                                           vaults and fosses, battlements and bridges, and very
                                                           soon find yourself back again at your starting-point.
                                                           An Italian soldier silhouetted on the skyline shouted
                                                           to Passepartout to put his camera away. As a matter
                                Among other things, Cocteau has   of fact Passepartout was about to photograph, not   Rodos Confidential Digital Archives
                                  passionately painted gods and   the fortress, but an old Mahometan woman who
                                heroes of Greek mythology. Εκτός   was lighting a cigarette, leaning on the parapet of
                                  των άλλων, έχει ζωγραφίσει με
                                  πάθος θεούς και ήρωες από την   a Byzantine well. A sacrilegious gesture—as if the
                                        ελληνική μυθολογία.  Vicar’s wife should smoke beside the font! It was

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